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The ancient name for Gelligaer was Senghenyth which comprised the strip of land between the rivers Rhymney and Taff from the southern border of Breckonshire to Cardiff. It is recorded as Senghenid on an 8th Century map produced by William Rees.

Crown Copyright: RCAHMW

It is a fascinating area, rich in historical remains with castles, Roman forts, an Elizabethan mansion, Bronze Age settlements, burial mounds, Ogham stones, Christian sites and early iron-working sites all very much in evidence. Pre-history is dramatically represented by a 4000 year-old megalithic tomb at Cam Bugail and by four bronze flat axes unearthed in the Darren Valley. Below Cam Bugail stands a nine-feet high maen-hir, the Kevn Gelli Gaer Stone. Its horizontal inscription has been widely speculated upon, from a Welsh translation of 'Deffro it ti' (Mayst thou awake) to a Roman 'Via Frontini' (the way of Frontinus - suggesting it refers to the Roman general Julius Frontinus). A later, generally accepted form of translation was provided by Edward Lhuyd in 1693 as being the proper  Latin name for Dubricius, a saint who, reportedly, crowned King Arthur in 512AD in Caerleon.  Excavations carried out in 1936 by Sir Cyril and Aileen Fox at Dinas Noddfa near Cam Bugail revealed further evidence of early activity on the Gelligaer Common with the unearthing of a 5th or 6th century settlement with unusual platform dwellings, together with a nearby Bronze Age cemetery. Details of the excavation can be found at the National Museum of Wales. The old Roman road across Gelligaer Common, parts of which can be seen today, was jealously guarded by the Welsh princes as a safe and strategic route to the south.

Gelligaer's northern upland reaches, towards Merthyr Tydfil was, in the 5th century, part of the realm of King Glywys, called Glywysing. On his death the land was inherited by his son, Gwynllyw. Uwch Caeach, Upper Gelligaer, is thought to have been the Cantref Brenhinol, the Priveleged Cantref and once the chief seat of civil power in Morgannwg. During Gwynllyw's time an injection of Christianity was brought to Gelligaer with the establishment of Capel Gwladys and Capel Tydfil, churches dedicated to two of the Christian daughters of Brychan, the then king of neighbouring Brycheiniog. St Cadog also had a religious cell at Gelligaer and St Cenydd and St Ffili, son and grandson of Gildas the Historian, gave their names to Senghenydd and Caerphilly.

A highlight of these adventurous times was the kidnapping from Brychan's court of Gwladys by Cadog's father Gwynllyw. Hotly pursued by Brychan and his men to Bochriw Carn (Fochriw) the couple were championed by King Arthur and his loyal knights Bedwyr and Cai who helped repulse Brychan's efforts to liberate his daughter. Gwynllyw and Gwladys ultimately settled at Bochriw Cam where their son Cadog was born. Legend has it that Cadog later became a knight of King Arthur, none other than the gallant Sir Galahad, keeper of the Holy Grail.

The aura of Gelligaer's fascinating history and the magical mythology that surrounds it can still be sensed on its upper moorlands where its hills have remained virtually untouched since Liewellyn, the last true Prince of Wales, led his army southwards to battle against the Normans. Not entirely untouched, however, since Pantywaun, a village near a site of one of the country's oldest fairs, was obliterated by opencasting activities in 1962. The Waun Fair was granted a charter by lestyn ap Gwrgant in 1140 to continue its long held traditional fair, also known as the 'Apples and Pears Fair', which attracted traders from as far afield as Fishguard selling herrings, from Kidwelly selling cockles and from Cardiganshire selling home-made socks.

Only the curlews and skylarks remain to enhance the stillness of the place and the feeling of peace with the world

Gone are the bare-fist fighting booths, the cock-fighting and the gypsies and tinkers selling clothes pegs, tin-ware, moleskin trousers and leather gaiters. Only the curlews and skylarks remain to enhance the stillness of the place and the feeling of peace with the world. An old name for a focal point of the Common was Dinas Noddfa (The City of Refuge), appropriate, indeed, in this area of peace and tranquillity, and one that should be preserved and treasured.

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